SIEM REAP
NATURAL STATE.
Hindu, Buddhist, Khmer, Chinese, French, Siamese. Many egos, from many lands and theologies surveyed this land and built their own capital kingdoms, each slightly further down the road and bigger than the last. Each claimed to rule and own this country at one point or another, however they are all dead and gone. All that remains, are the stones which built them who now tell their own beautiful story of ruins intertwined with earth and light. The largest of these, Angkor Wat, a Unesco World Heritage Site of the Khmer civilization, depicts Hindu drawings on the walls in a war to regain order and peace in the world. Gods and demons work together to release the amrita or immortal nectar. Once released, they turn against each other in a battle of good versus evil to attain the elixir. This story turned out to be a reliable analogy for my experience in Siem Reap. The temples are so magnificent and can be peaceful if you search for the smaller sites, but the town is volatile with temptations of young gap year enthusiasts and an abomination of made in China elephant pants and tourist mayhem. Tred carefully, as this place can give you life and kill your soul at the same time. Do not forget, the elixir of life always comes at a cost.
DO. TOMB RAIDER
DAY 1
Eastern Mebon, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia enter on the side not in the front where everyone else goes and wander the walled in perimeter before ascending
Banteay Samre Temple, you can wander on grass at this 12th century Hindu temple
Ta Prohm, ingrown with trees, this verdant majestic Buddhist temple should be experienced slowly
Ta Keo, pyramid style temple in the shape of Mount Meru
Ta Nei, my favorite temple, you can typically experience alone, jump and weave through the fallen piles of ruins make this your second to last stop of the day and then head onto
Angkor Thom, this 13th Century Khmer capital will always be crowded but has much to discover. Loiter on top and sit amongst the heads of kings and don’t forget Baphuon, take the long walkway and sit admiring the vista
DAY 2
If you can manage to wake up before dawn head to Angkor Wat for sunrise
Ta Som, 12th Century Buddhist temple with a patient and stunning entrance
Neak Pean, take the promenade, what appears to be dying trees in the distance of the wooden planks are eerie and astounding
Preah Khan Temple, intertwined with trees and carvings wander and breathe deep
STAY. cHOOSE WISELY
Heritage Suites Hotel, Heritage road, Wat Polanka - Phum Slok Kram, Siem Reap 93101
Amansara, Charles De Gaulle, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
Belmond La Residence d'Angkor, River Road, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
Phum Baitang, Sangkat Svaydangkum, Krong Siem Reap 17000
Maison Polanka, Upper East River Road, North of wat polanka, Krong Siem Reap
Templation, Route du petit pont, Krong Siem Reap 17251, Cambodia
Shinta Mani Angkor, Oum Khun St/Shinta Mani St, 00000, Cambodia
Anantara Angkor Resort, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
EAT. CROCODILE BURGERS?
Marum, #8A, B Phum Slokram (Between Wat Polanka and Catholic Church), Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia beetroot lime basil salad, crocodile burger if you dare, owned by NGO, Kaliyan Mith which supports impoverished children, shop also supports and has handmade crafts
Haven, Chocolate Rd, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia Swiss owned, Cambodian head chef, trains orphans and youth to cook and staff, new menu daily MSG free
Genevieve's Restaurant, Bamboo street, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia local and western cuisine, 10% of profits donated to Cambodian teachers, local crafts and artisan shop
The Little Red Fox Espresso, Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
Mamma Shop, Hadgang Street #636, Phum Mondol I, Svay Dangkum, 17000
Muscovy Duck Soup, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
Cuisine Wat Damnak, Wat Damnak Market Street, POBox 93108, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia pre-fixe menu
WILD, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia
SHOP. HATS OFF
the Cambodian sunhat, these perfect souvenirs can be purchased on the side of the road created by banana leaves woven and threaded, I kept this hat with me through five more countries and finally back to New York
Psar Chas, traditional market
Les Chantiers Ecoles, Artisans Angkor, Chantiers-Ecoles, Stung Thmey Street, Krong Siem Reap 855500, school teaches young Cambodians stone, wood carving, and silk weaving in addition to boutique
Louise Loubatieres Gallery, 7 Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia local design shop featuring ceramics, jewelry, and tie dye home goods
Constable Gallery at Large, 18A Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, gallery featuring local Cambodian art
Niko’s Studio, 664 Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia, neon buddhas
trunkh., 11A Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodian lifestyle brand
Shop676, 676 Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, beautiful linens and indigo
Maison Sirivan, 10 Hap Guan St, Krong Siem Reap, concept store of high end ready-to-wear all produced locally
Senteurs D'Angkor, No. 275 Psaa Chas, 2 Thnou St, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia, locally crafted beauty and spices
